Zion National Park: Angels Landing

October 30, 2013.Reading time 5 minutes.

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” John Muir

Angels Landing hike is in Zion National Park, Utah. It’s billed as one of the top two attractions in the park – and I’m not arguing, because it was the most spectacular hike that I did on my recent trip to the US.

The trail begins at the Grotto, meandering alongside the Virgin River in lower Zion Canyon. But it doesn’t stay flat for long, gradually getting steeper and steeper. This is a strenuous hike (5m/8km return) and, in summer, it’s likely to be hot. We were lucky to get started by 9am, which meant the trail was partially shaded on the way up. But, by the time we headed back down, the trail was completely exposed to the sun (and the 40-degrees-Celsius heat).

After about half an hour of walking, the cliffs loomed above us, seemingly impassable, but we could see people dotted along the trail. It’s truly remarkable that the National Parks Service were able to build a trail on these cliffs.

We followed a series of steep switchbacks and it was equally incredible looking up at the trail ahead or back down along the path we’d followed. Vertigo anyone! The view into lower Zion Canyon was also worth pausing for, and a chance to catch a breath.

Zion National Park: Emerald Pools

October 22, 2013.Reading time 4 minutes.

“All this is the music of waters.” John Wesley Powell, 1895

Zion National Park is stunning. Towering mountains rise majestically to the sky. The sculptured cliffs are multi-coloured; formed over many thousands of years by layers of mud, lime, sand and ash. It’s a desert landscape, but the canyon has been shaped by the Virgin River that winds its way through the valley. Of all the national parks I’ve visited in the US, this is my favourite. I was awestruck, just like the Morman pioneers and an early Methodist minister who gave some of the peaks biblical names – Angels Landing, the Great White Throne and The Three Patriarchs.

Antelope Canyon: a work of art

October 14, 2013.Reading time 2 minutes.

“The Navajo name for Upper Antelope Canyon means ‘the place where the water takes a picture of itself.'” Antelope Canyon Navajo Tours

Antelope Canyon

Antelope Canyon is on Navajo land near Page, Arizona, and is one of the most-photographed slot canyons in the American Southwest. It was formed over hundreds of years; the narrow fissures carved into sandstone by wind and water erosion. The only way to visit is by guided tour, largely because it’s part of the Navajo Tribal Park, but also because the area is prone to flash floods (as recently as three weeks prior to my visit).

What can I say about Antelope Canyon? It’s a natural work of art – the shapes in the canyon walls; the palette of colour and texture on the rocks; the narrow winding passageways; and the light streaming through the gaps from above. It truly was a wonderful experience descending into this stunning slot canyon and spending an hour with our young brimming-with-enthusiasm Navajo guide.

Looking into Antelope Canyon from the top

The Grouse Grind: dangerous hike or Sunday afternoon stroll?

October 7, 2013.Reading time 6 minutes.

“Personally, I’ve never been attracted to danger. It’s not my sort of thing. I am more attracted to pubs and cafes. The known, safe and comfortable world.” Bill Bryson

View of Vancouver from the top of Grouse Mountain.

One of the first things I wanted to do when I arrived in Vancouver this year was hike the Grouse Grind. But my brother, Ross, who I was visiting, cautioned me. Apparently, Outside magazine had named it as one of the world’s most dangerous hikes. Did I really want to risk it?

Of course, Ross was joking. He handed me an article from The Vancouver Sun, which basically labelled the Outside article as ludicrous and included some humorous comments from locals:

“In response to the Grind being called dangerous, Gary Ross tweeted “Blindfolded maybe”. And on Facebook, Eric Tran wrote: “There’s an effing chalet at the top with cold beer, and a gondola ride down.” Comedian and blogger Torben Rolfsen, writing on The Province website, joked that “dangers include spilling one’s latte, not bringing enough money for beer at the top, and having to call the North Shore Rescue helicopter if the gondola breaks down.”

To read the full article click here.

The truth is the hike is somewhere in between. It’s definitely a challenge. In less than three kilometres, the trail climbs more than 850 metres, and its nickname is “mother nature’s stairmaster”. You also don’t see many people chatting and laughing near the top; because it is a grind to get to the finish. But dangerous? I think not.

Photo story: Vancouver

August 31, 2013.Reading time 1 minute.

Vancouver is my home away from home; a place I love…

These are two of my favourite photographs. They were taken in Vancouver and they both adorn a wall in my home, so this beautiful city is never far from my thoughts. Over the years, Vancouver has become my ‘home away from home’… because my brother lives in Horseshoe Bay with his family. For me, there’s nothing better than hanging out in Horseshoe Bay, which has a village atmosphere even though it’s part of a city.

My other favourite pastime is cycling around Stanley Park, which is where I took the photograph below, along with the many other trails around the city.

I have just spent two more weeks in Vancouver – hiking the Grouse Grind, visiting Capilano Suspension Bridge (for the first time), wandering around Gastown, exploring Steveston and, of course, hanging out in Horseshoe Bay. It has been wonderful to be back.

Now I’m headed to the USA for a hiking trip in some of the big national parks, so my blog will be a little less frequent for the next month. Happy travels… and I will return soon.

Tasman National Park: Cape Pillar

August 13, 2013.Reading time 6 minutes.

“All that glitters is not gold. All who wander are not lost.” William Shakespeare

The Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service have, for some time, been working on an ambitious project known as the Three Capes Track. This multi-day coastal trek will take in the towering sea cliffs of the Tasman Peninsula, including Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy, and will have a boat leg across Port Arthur Bay, and finish at Fortescue Bay.

My friend Mary and I were keen to explore the Tasman Peninsula while it was relatively unknown and somewhat wild, so we set off on a New Year’s weekend (a couple of years ago). On day one, we walked from Fortescue Camping Ground to Retakunna Creek via Cape Pillar Track. It was a short walk, taking us about three-and-a-half hours, climbing gradually across Consolation Hill and Tornado Ridge. The final half an hour was downhill to our beautifully located campsite, our base for two nights.

Tasman National Park: Fortescue Bay

August 6, 2013.Reading time 5 minutes.

“In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.” Aristotle

The Tasman Peninsula in Tasmania, Australia, has some great bushwalking and I’ve been fortunate enough to visit the area four times. Once was a visit to the historical site of Port Arthur – and I can recommend the ghost tour – but, every other time, it’s been to go hiking. The Tasman Coastal Trail, which is one of Tasmania’s Great Walks, hugs the coast from Waterfall Bay to Fortescue Bay, and then out to Cape Hauy and Cape Pillar. It’s a spectacular walk that features some of Australia’s highest cliffs, including dolerite towers known as the ‘Candlestick’ and the ‘Totem Pole’.

My first hiking foray was just a lightning day trip, so we checked out short walks to the Blowhole, Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen and the beginning of a walk to Waterfall Bay. On the second occasion, we donned packs and set off on a three-day-loop from Fortescue Bay to Cape Pillar return (which I’ll feature in my next blog). And, on the third occasion, we set up camp at Fortescue Bay and did two short, but incredibly beautiful, hikes – to Bivouac Bay and Cape Hauy.

Clovelly to Westward Ho!

July 23, 2013.Reading time 6 minutes.

“The village was built sheer up the face of a steep and lofty cliff. There was no road in it, there was no wheeled vehicle in it, there was not a level yard in it. From the sea-beach to the cliff-top two irregular rows of white houses, placed opposite to one another and twisting here and there, and there and here, rose, like the sides of a long succession of stages of crooked ladders.” Charles Dickens

One of the most picturesque hikes I’ve ever done was from Clovelly to Westward Ho! – a section of the UK’s South West Coast Path. At the time, I was working at a outdoor activity centre in North Devon, and a few of us decided to spend our day off work wandering along the coast. We left our car at Westward Ho!, hitch-hiked to Clovelly, and then hiked the 17.9 km (11.1 miles) back to Westward Ho!. It was an awesome day; but not without misadventure.

Multi-day walks at Wilsons Promontory

June 11, 2013.Reading time 8 minutes.

I have been one acquainted with the night.
I have walked out in rain – and back in rain.
I have outwalked the furthest city light…. ~Robert Frost

I love that quote from Robert Frost, particularly in relation to the two multi-day hikes I’ve done at Wilsons Promontory. Both were on the Queen’s Birthday long weekend in June, two years in a row, in the middle of the Australian winter. The first hike we ‘walked out in rain’, and the second hike we walked ‘back in rain’. But on both occasions we also had sunshine. It was wonderful to get away from the city lights, to gaze at the stars during dark chilly nights, and enjoy the fresh ocean breeze while trekking along the coast.

East Prom coastal circuit via Sealers Cove, Refuge Cove and Little Waterloo Bay

The thing that I loved most about this weekend was our perseverance. It was raining on our drive to Wilsons Promontory and the weather didn’t look promising. But we donned our raincoats and set off anyway, confident in our wet weather gear, and hopeful that the sun would emerge at some stage. On the first night, just after we’d taken shelter in our tent, the heavens opened to torrential rain. A few hikers were caught out and they were forced to hike out the next day because everything got wet. But we were safe and snug in our warm sleeping bags, and the next two days ended up being perfect with blue skies and sunshine. It’s often the way for us. We seem to attract the rain but then, if we carry on undeterred, we find ourselves in the most spectacular places enjoying nature’s beauty.

Short walks at Wilsons Promontory

June 4, 2013.Reading time 4 minutes.

“An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.” Henry David Thoreau

Wilsons Promontory National Park has plenty of short walks; taking in forests, sand dunes, pristine beaches, mountains, and lookouts with incredible views. I’ve been visiting this national park for many years and still haven’t explored every trail. But, here are three of my favourite short walks at The Prom.

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Tag: trekking